San Fran Afterthoughts

Some post-trip thoughts:

• A friend noted that people in San Francisco don't like to wear deodorant (I noticed) and they can tell who is not local because they wear nice shoes and cologne when they go out.
• I'm glad I didn't drive because 1) parking is either hard to find or really hard on really steep hills - I don't know how they don't slam into each other trying to parallel park and 2) driving over some of those crests is scurry!
• Go in September or October when the weather is the nicest - Summer is cold
• Yelp Yelp Yelp Yelp!
• iPhones really do suck royal elephant balls in San Francisco.  WHY?  At least the phone portion... data seemed OK (except Four Square)
• I really miss Naia gelato

San Francisco Day 6

From California 2010

After our host Rick made us some scrambled eggs with salmon, Jose stayed in to rest for his performance in Venus and Adonis (he is cupid) and I went with Rick to the Asian Art Museum where he was going to a lecture.

I checked out the museum's displays and walked around the city hall area for a little bit.  The city hall itself is really nice - it looks like a state capital building.  There were some characters on the streets around there - one random woman asked me if I had a phone for sale, laughed and said she was serious because she missed her phone.

I met Jose back at the house and we had lunch at the Baker Street Bistro nearby and Jose had several coronaries while watching the Blue Angels practicing over the city for Fleet Week.

Then it was time (sort of, we arrived pretty early) to head to Menlo Park near Palo Alto for Jose's concert at St. Patrick's Seminary - nice place.  The concert was actually what's believed to be the first opera in English and it was only an hour long - not bad!

After the concert, we had dinner at a Thai place in Palo Alto.

San Francisco Day 5

From California 2010

Today Jose and I went down to Pier 39 for a cruise on the harbor - it goes under the Golden Gate bridge and around Alcatraz island... it actually gets pretty close.

After that, we had lunch at the Crab House - holy fast service.  They apparently take your order at your table with a wireless device because our food came literally like 5 minutes later.  I had the "killer crab" which was half a dungeoness crab in garlic butter.  It was good, but the garlic butter actually kind of overpowered the crab a bit.

Jose went home to rest and I did the rest of Pier 39 and the Aquarium.  The Blue Angels were practicing over the harbor for Fleet Week, too.  Jose told me later he wasn't able to nap because of them.

I walked up to Washington Square Park and had some really great gelato at Naia - you can get two flavors in a small cup, so I got pistachio and Ferrero Rocher - both were excellent.

I took the bus to Golden Gate park and went to the Tea Garden that Jose and I skipped the other day.  I decided to go after seeing photos of it from a friend of mine.  I got some tea and mochi at the tea house in the garden and spent a while just relaxing a bit.

I went to the Conservatory of Flowers just in time to see it before it closed, some very nice flowers - and the jungle room was sooo humid!  My glasses fogged up as soon as I walked in.

I walked to Stow Lake just as the sun was starting to go down and ate a little of the mochi I got to go.

My friend Dante was out of work by this time so we met in Castro for dinner at Thai Chef, caught up (it had been YEARS since we'd seen each other), and he took me around to pretty much all the gay bars in the area for literally about 5 minutes each, LOL.  They're all pretty small and "clubs" are pretty rare - they're really just bars and strangely enough they were showing baseball - but because the Giants were playing.

We took a quick ride to SoMa and Folsom street and then he dropped me off back at the house!  It was great to see him again but by then (about 10) I was pretty tired.

San Francisco Day 4

From California 2010

Lots of walking today but not as many destinations.  Jose and I went to Golden Gate park and saw the Academy of Sciences - really great museum.  Aquarium, a four story rain forest with butterflies and birds, we did the planetarium show which was great...

Then we Yelped around the area looking for lunch and we settled on a Thai place for something light... Soi Gow Thai.  I got lettuce wraps and a cup of coconut shrimp soup, Jose got duck fried rice.

We drove up to Lands End and walked around up there and the Sutro Baths ruins before he dropped me off at the Palace of the Legion on Honor before going to rehearsal.  I checked out the art at the museum and the holocast memorial and then I walked alllllll the way down to Geary and 22nd... holy crap my knee hurt.

I took the bus from there to Presidio street and then another bus back to the Marina district again for dinner.  I Yelped around there for quite a while before getting pizza at Amici's - a delicious mini pizza with roasted garlic, mushrooms and carmelized onions.

While eating the pizza, I Yelped dessert and went to Crepes a Go Go and got the most amazing giant crepe - the King Lias crepe:  Nutella, bananas, coconut, almond powder and whipped cream.  Smashing!

On the way back to the house I picked up a red velvet cupcake for Jose and burned a few of the calories from that crepe by walking home.

Tomorrow I'm thinking harbor cruise, bay aquarium... and I think I'm having dinner with my friend Dante.

iPhoning in San Fran

Musings on my iPhone:

One thing I've learned:  Yelp is one of the best things in the world.  Not only can you find just about anything near you, but you get the reviews.  I definitely would have had a different dining experience on this trip without it.

My iPhone was absolutely invaluable as a GPS system.  My big walk on Monday would have been much harder without it!  Yay Google Maps!

Why the hell doesn't Foursquare work properly in San Francisco?  My phone worked fine for data, although I am dropping calls a lot... I've heard AT&T sucks in San Francisco.

San Francisco Day 3

From California 2010

This morning Jose and I got up pretty early and drove down to Carmel-by-the-Sea.  The main downtown area is pretty touristy, with nice, upscale shopping and dining.  We had brunch at this quaint place called The Cottage.  I had a delicious meal - the Cottage Special - little pancakes, "bangers" - English sausage, eggs and a side of toast.  Jose wasn't as thrilled with his eggs benedict - he said the hollandaise was very vinegary.

We drove along "Scenic Drive", stopping a little along the way, with nice views of the ocean, beaches and rocks.

We took route 1 out to the Point Lobos Ecological Reserve, which was absolutely breathtaking.  Sea lions basking on the rocks, rock arches in the water, little hidden beaches, a cypress grove... you could spend all day there but we only saw one side of it.  Jose even took a little nap in the car while I explored China Cove.

We wanted to see Monterey and Jose had rehearsal tonight at 8, so we headed there... it wasn't as compact and pretty as Carmel, but we had a very pleasant snack on Cannery Road and drove around a little bit.  We weren't all that impressed, didn't have time for the aquarium, so we headed back to San Francisco but took route 1 most of the way.

From California 2010

So many of the views on the way back were so beautiful, and we were approaching sunset so the light was great.  We stopped at a couple places along the way, most notably Pigeon Point lighthouse and Pescadero Beach.

Jose dropped me off downtown on his way to rehearsal, and I took the bus toward the house.  I stopped off at the Marina district and had a great dinner at Ristorante Parma, where they had carbonara that was not made with cream.  It had a definite chicken stock flavor but it was really good.  I also had some chocolate raspberry cake for dessert.

People in the restaurant were kind of weird (not the staff they were great - the patrons).  The guy next to me literally asked for a custom pasta dish, specifying all the ingredients.  The woman next to me wanted a seafood dish with different seafood but they didn't have shrimp so she couldn't have what she wanted, but she talked about how she wanted her shrimp.  I don't understand why people to go restaurants, wanting something really specific.  I have no idea where they were from.

San Francisco Day 2

From California 2010

Jose and I slept well, got up and had some breakfast at The Grove.  The place was very expensive and kind of loud, but the food was good.  It felt like it was trying a little too hard, though.

We drove over the Golden Gate bridge and stopped at the vista point just over it.  I don't know - personally I thought it was cool to be in a famous place but I just don't see the bridge has being particularly nice to look at.  Cool bit of engineering, though.

Jose wanted to take me up the nearby hills, but there was road construction and where he wanted to go was closed off, but we ended up in Point Bonita which was very cool and very beautiful.  Some neat historic sites like the Nike Missile Site and Battery Mendell, along with some really gorgeous views.  We also went to the Point Bonita Lighthouse, and though we couldn't get to the lighthouse itself (it was closed), the trail there was really gorgeous.

We stopped REALLY quickly in Sausalito, because I got in touch with my friend Alex and we went back to have lunch with him in a bad section of San Francisco - at Miss Saigon at 6th and Mission.  The food was good though, and it was great to see Alex.

We did some very quick shopping at the mall near Powell Station and then Jose had to go off to rehearsal.  I got my City Pass and started my big walk.

From California 2010

I walked to Union Square, walked up Grant through Chinatown, looped around Stockton - it's interesting.  Grant is the really touristy Chinatown street and the next street over, Stockton, is the REAL Chinatown where everything is in Chinese and you get the real deal like dried scallops, lop cheung and other dried scary bits.  Walking on Stockton felt like I was back in China.  Hong Kong mostly, because people were speaking Cantonese.

I went up Montgomery, got a really good look at the Transamerica Pyramid, walked up to Telegraph Hill, found an intersection where you can see the pyramid, the Bay Bridge and the Coit Tower just by turning in place.

I hiked up the Coit Tower stairs, took in the view with a bunch of other tourists, and then went down the other side, up Lombard St, including the really crooked section, up Russian Hill, over Polk to Bay and sat in the grass at the corner of Bay and Laguna while making plans to meet my friend Jaycen.

Using my new City Pass, I took the bus to Castro and met up with Jaycen, walked around the area for a bit before having dinner at La Mediterreanee and had some really good chicken with raisins and spices in pyllo.  They had such good service.  Jaycen ordered Kibbeh and only ate half.  He asked to take the rest home, and the waitress came back and said "I'm so sorry.  I dropped your food, so they're making you another one."  They made him another full one!

Back to the house for me, met up with Jose, who got out from rehearsal a bit early, and we chatted with Rick whose house we're staying at and another guest at the house.

San Francisco Day 1

Jose and I arrived in San Francisco around 5:30 pm local time, picked up our rental (free upgrade since they didn't have any more compacts), and then dropped our stuff at the house we're staying at near the Presido.

From California 2010

We drove down to Fisherman's Wharf, walked around for a little bit and after a couple of long waits, settled for a short wait at Pompei's Grotto where we had some excellent food. We shared a crab appetizer - crab bruschetta, a baby crab cake and a half cracked dungeoness crab. I had a full dungeoness crab which is chilled and so sweet. It was delicious and reasonably priced. I was very full by the end.

We walked around a little more before going back to the house and going to bed.

Double Hike: Connecticut

From Connecticut

Continuing my exploration of Connecticut, today I drove down to Southford Falls in Oxford, CT.  It's a nice park although the "falls" were not much more that a trickle - I've seen brooks with more action.  I had a nice walk/hike on the trails that loop around the park and saw lots of chipmunks.

I think I heard a bear up near the watchtower, and later I saw what appeared to be bear poop, too.  Not really loving the idea that I might have been near a bear.

I had planned to have lunch in Litchfield and then take back roads home.  On the way, I SWEAR I saw signs for a Garlic and Harvest festival, and followed the following signs to a vineyard where there was no garlic, so I left.  I am not a huge wine person and was pretty hungry at this point.

I got to Litchfield and ate at Aspen Garden and I had a delicious cup of chilled apple and butternut squash soup, and an OK greek salad with spanikopita.  I poked around the shops in the cute little downtown area and then took off for my slow drive home.

When I got to Simsbury, I saw what looked like a monestary on a mountain and I immediately thought, a la Liz Lemon, "I want to go to there."  So, I kind of just drove toward it.

From Connecticut

I found Talcott State Park and Heublein Tower (it's not a monestary).  I hiked my butt again up to the tower, took in the 360 degree view from the observation deck and hiked my tired butt back down.

I heard a woman who was on her way up with some kids say "It's so much easier on the way down!"  LIAR!!!  She should have her kids taken away for lying to them like that.  I jest.  Mostly.  I was tired.

I continued on back roads home until I drove by a southern/cajun joint in a plaza and picked up some dinner:  ribs, cornbread, corn, rice and candied yams.  OK, at this point I had food so I hopped on the highway for the rest of the trip home.

My feet are tired, but it was a great day and I'm going to sleep well!  I burned a lot of calories today and enjoyed the fresh air.

I'll think of it as prep for my trip to San Francisco with Jose which is coming up!

Trying out the local stuff

From Connecticut

So I've lived in Connecticut for 8 years and I hardly know it.  I've been to somewhat unusual locations throughout the world, but I have not seen much of the US, so I've been using my weekends to explore the area around me.

I made some half-hearted attempts to find a traveling companion but decided to go it alone like I often do when traveling abroad while Jose's rehearsing.

I had heard from a friend of mine who was CEO of a tourism board in CT that Essex was a nice, quaint town, so I drove down and checked it out.

It was nice, but really small.  The one main street had some little shops and galleries and a lot of expensive cars parked along the road.

I did, however, book a cruise on the Connecticut river on the Mary E. which is based from the Connecticut River Museum.  I grabbed a quick lunch at Olive Oyl's - crab cake and a shrimp thai pasta salad.  Then I had perfect weather on my side and me and a boatload of older folks had a nice, relaxing time on the river.

Lots of really expensive houses, an island for sale ($1 million with a house), osprey nests... one bird of prey we couldn't quite identify.  A biplane flew over us... People on the river in speedboats, though, are not very considerate.  I saw one little boat almost get bowled over by the wake of a speedboat.

From Connecticut

Someone on the boat mentioned Gillette Castle, so I decided to head over to there after my sail.

The castle itself is a little weird looking - very craggy - and I didn't pay to go inside, but had a nice walk around the grounds (there are trails) and down to the river near the ferry.

When in Rome...

... do as Romans do.  So what does that mean?  In my opinion, from three days:

• Eat massively delicious food and somehow keep from becoming morbidly obese.  I haven't figured out quite how they manage.  
• Drive like MANIACS.  Holy crap.  On a road with two car lanes and one for buses, they drive 5 cars wide, and that's not including the motorcycles driving between the cars.  We're talking like an inch or two from their handlebars and the cars' mirrors.  Eeep.
• Live totally casually among ancient (ANCIENT) ruins and beautiful architecture.
• Spray graffiti on anything modern.
• Drink Acqua Panna.  Yummmmm.
• Learn how to "Ciao bella" at women if you're a guy and learn how to deal with it if you're the bella.  No one said "Ciao bello" to me.  :-P
• Wear tight pants.

I loved Rome... no way I could drive though.  I'd never get anywhere because I am no good at forcing my way through traffic.  That's why Jose's always good for driving when leaving big events like concerts.  And there's only two metro lines downtown because of the multiple levels of ancient ruins under the city.  

Rome II

From France and Italy 2010

Our second full day in Rome had us taking the bus to the Vatican (no students - they were probably all hung over).  The line to get into the basilica was INSANE.  Perhaps even a mile long.  We took some photos and browsed some cheesy tourist shops around St. Peter's square (there was even a calendar of hot priests!).

We walked around the wall of the Vatican to the other side where we got into the Vatican Museum with no line... but there were old people tours everywhere and at one point it was really bad - packed like the bus was!  We forced our way through and pretty much ran through the museum to the Sistine Chapel, pausing ever so slightly in the hall of maps, which was probably my favorite room.

The chapel was pretty awesome - lots of people, some occasionally taking a photo and getting yelled at, and guards shhhhing people.

We found a little pizzeria and had some pizza and some crab things I love so much.

We did some shopping and I got a bunch of great shirts from a store called David Saddler... really great stuff - contrasting inner cuffs you can flip out, cuffs that have both buttons and holes for cuff links... they took a lot of my money but the woman who helped me, Andressa, was really sweet and from Sao Paulo so we talked in Portuguese.

The Castle of Angels and the Piazza del Popolo were next and by then my feet were ready to fall off.  Home and then dinner at Pomodoro which had good food but Jose and I agreed our favorite restaurant was the one we went to on our first night... Mmmmmm that carbonara.

Rome I

Patty, Jose and I got up and went to a whole bunch of places around Rome today.  We had lunch in the Piazza de Campo del Fiore and I had a really great fettucini with truffles - first time having those and they were so good!  We walked around some more - the places are generally documented in my photos.  Then we came back here for a little to take showers (it was kind of warm today) and rest up before going to this concert of famous opera arias that Patty got tickets to at the Pantheon.

From France and Italy 2010

We rushed to get there in time, taking a bus and a train (there are only two metro lines in Rome because of the archaelogical sites), and the concert was very... entertaining.  The singers were generally only OK and the orchestra was crazy.  The violinist tuned to the harp and I knew at that point that it was going to be weird.  Then he was waving his bow around whie they were playing like he was conducting but he was just following them, I think.  He would wave it at the singers like he was tapping them on the head.  It was crazy.

For dinner we ate at this place that used to be the studio of a famous sculptor and they had original plaster "tryouts" all over the restaruant.  I had linguini with lobster which was very good.  We got rushed out because they were closing fifteen minutes after we got there.  It was tasty stuff though.

We walked and did some window shopping and then took a bus home.  A whole bunch of college-aged kids came on to the bus and packed it solid.  And while we were moving, this drunk kid sitting directly across from me started to throw up - thankfully he didn't have anything to eat.... it was just liquid and spit.  Patty and I jumped onto our seats in time and road on the backs until they all got off.  They were, of course, American.

Quick note from Rome

From France and Italy 2010

Hidy ho from Rome - just a quick note because I'm not using my computer while here, I probably won't post much more until I get back home.  Rome is crazy though - it's amazing how the old and the new are so integrated. 

Jose, Patty and I have gone a WHOLE bunch of places, so far mostly in the southern part of the center (I guess) - tomorrow there is a parade for their equivalent of the 4th of July in that area so we did that today and tomorrow we'll be hanging out in the general area of the Vatican.

Tonight we're going to see a show where they'll be performing famous arias.

The food here is incredible.  I'm glad I'm only here for a short while, otherwise I'd gain 500 pounds.

From France and Italy 2010

In Gray Paris

We're in Paris!  It's kind of gray here... and cooler than Spain.  Last night I didn't get to the hotel until about 8:30 I think - there was a lot of traffic from the airport.  I arrived at the hotel at the same time as a few others from the opera.

The hotel is cool - contemporary with LED mood lighting, both in the rooms and hallways.  It's just a couple blocks from the Arc de Triomphe which is a very nice location except the metro line we're on is having troubles.

From France and Italy 2010

Last night we had to rush rush to meet Florencia for dinner because kitchens close around 10 pm here - as opposed to Spain when that's when a lot of people are just heading out for dinner!  Our train stopped halfway there (and dumped us right at Moulin Rouge) so we took a cab the rest of the way and made it just in time to have a simple but delicious roasted chicken dinner with these AWESOME round, flat french fry type things that had garlic on them, salad and we all got dessert.  I got a creme brulee, Florencia got a coconut cake and Jose got this thing I can't remember the name of - it's like meringue in a pool of creme and caramel.

We walked around for a little bit - Flo and I are going to hang out for some before the opera while Jose rehearses and then she'll go see it - I'll probably walk around somewhere or go to a museum that she suggested.

A little of this, a little of that.

Jose and I went to have coffee (well, I had another hot chocolate) with Enrique back at Circulo de las Belles Artes.  We chatted with him for a couple of hours (what a great guy) and Jose had to run to the opera.

I tried to find the San Miguel market again and got some delicious canapes.  I also got a couple of shirts at Zara - I love being in Europe because the clothes fit me.  I'm a medium here!

I sat at the restaurant near the theater and had a glass of sangria and people watched for a little while before running back to the apartment to drop off my bag and wait for Jose outside the artist's entrance after the opera was done.  Heading back I got turned around TWICE.  I've never gotten lost so much in my life...

From Spain 2010

We ended up going back to the restaurant with many of the cast members and hung out there for a couple of hours and had a great time - they are all very nice!  We went to a little party on a roof before getting home at 3:30.  Beautiful view from up there.

Let's take a train... or not.

From Spain 2010

Jose and I went to see if we could take a train to Toledo but they were on strike so most of the trains weren't running.  We were going to try to go to the monastery near Madrid but that needs a train, too, and one of the security guards said the train hadn't come in over an hour.  Jose couldn't risk not getting back in time for the opera tonight, so we did plan C.

We walked through Retiro park again and walked around the fancy shopping Salamanca neighborhood, looping back around to the park.  We got some delicious treats at the Moulin Chocolat just as it started raining.  We took the metro one stop and now we're back at the apartment.

I'm foreseeing eating out while Jose's at the opera but otherwise laying kind of low today.  Tomorrow afternoon we head to Paris!

Ottavia, Ottavia...

From Spain 2010

The Prado Museum was great - lots of art that was generally violent or naked, LOL.

We went to Circulo de Bellas Artes for a "snack" - I got two canapes expecting small ones like I've always gotten, but these were huge: anchovies and tomato, and salmon with a cream-cheese like stuff.  With it I got a delicious not-very-sweet hot chocolate with amaretto flavor, but I couldn't really taste the almond much.  Jose got a strawberry white chocolate cake that he was too moved by.

We went back to the apartment and I ironed my clothes for the opera, which was good because he got called last minute for a rehearsal because they recorded the performance tonight for a dvd.  I got to see Siobhan for a little bit before and after the show.  The audience seemed to love it... long applause!  I enjoyed it very much - and it was the first time I had seen it in person.  I liked many of the singers a lot... and it was a good-looking cast.

I ended up sitting next to conductor Alan Curtis who was a very nice guy - Jose noticed where I was sitting and told me who it was.

It's 1:30 am and I'm not particularly tired... we're planning on sleeping in because Jose has to perform again, but we're planning on going to Toledo for a little while.

No Segovia para mi

My plans to go to Segovia today are in the crapper - what a mess the train station was this morning - the ticket counters numbering system was all whacked and then once I got to a person I found that I had to get to another station to go... and by then it was getting late and I couldn't figure out how to use my Eurail pass to get to the Chamartin station from Atoche.

Well, anyway.  I just had lunch with Jose - he made this good chicken dish with rice.  We're going to the Prado Museum in a few...

Observations in Spain

Gross generalizations.  Spainards...

• seem to be really nice and polite once you engage them.  Otherwise they mind their own business - the flight down was the quietest and well-behaved flight I think I've been on - even with children.
• pick their noses with aplomb (men anyway)
• cough and sneeze without covering their mouths
• like to roll their own - especially girls???
• people like the streets to be clean... sort of.  They kick litter around until it's out of the way.  In general, Spain is very clean.

I never looked for a barber! Dagnabbit!

Seville was very nice! It was like a bigger version of Cordoba. We took the bus to the Santa Cruz neighborhood after the 2.5 hour train ride (and getting up at 6:30 am) and walked around that neighborhood and the Jardines de Catalina de Ribera and Jardines de Murillo before settling on a place to eat near the Hospital de los Venerables.

We both had great food - we shared duck pate and Jose had beef stew with the meat falling apart and I had a casserole of fish, squid and shrimp. Our waiter was a nice guy and offered to take our picture.

Next we went to the Cathedral which was HUGE. The brochure said it was the biggest gothic cathedral in the world. Christopher Columbus's tomb is there. We spent quite a while there. Outside Jose got his (very expensive) fortune read by a gypsy. Another kept trying to give me a sprig of something or other but I just kept saying in Spanish, "No thanks! No thanks! I don't understand you!" Then she wanted me to pay. Yeah, right.

We walked down more streets toward the bull ring which was closed and we sat near the river to rest our feet which were very tired by then. Cobblestones and windy and slightly hilly roads take their toll.

We weren't quite sure what to do next, but I wanted to see these gardens on the map that we first thought we walked through at the beginning (the city/map are confusing just like the rest of Spain!).  Turns out they were part of the Royal Alcazar palace which was also gigantic.  We wanted a photo of the two of us and we asked these two girls, one of which was from Boston and the other from Rio!  Daniella and Vanessa.  Vanessa and Jose chatted in Portuguese and Danielle and I talked for a bit - she was enjoying our graduation present.

From Spain 2010

We were pretty tired after that so we headed to the train station to change our tickets but Jose couldn't change his, so we just hung out for a while and rested.

After returning to Madrid, we went to Vaca Argentina for dinner and had some good grub... an EXCELLENT appetizer of fried wild mushrooms with garlic mayo, I had skirt steak that was tough, Jose had a delicious flank steak and cheesy potatoes, and I had cheesecake ice cream for dessert.

I have NO idea what I'm doing tomorrow.  I'm supposed to go to the opera but Jose planted the idea in my head to go to Marrakech!

Sunnuvabuggerboo

From Spain 2010

Córdoba

From Spain 2010

I got up relatively early and left for the train station and promptly got lost.  Again.  I tried to take a shorter route and ended up doing a big, useless loop.  Streets in Spain are totally effed up, kids.

I got my tickets to and from Córdoba and tickets for me and Jose to Seville for tomorrow.  Hopefully I can walk tomorrow because it felt like the skin on my feet was burned off today!

About an hour and forty five minutes gets one from Madrid to Córdoba and the land between the two is not incredibly riveting, though it's interesting.  LOTS of olive bushes.  I mean, lots.  No wonder they eat so much olive oil with everything.  Lots of red flowers everywhere too... not sure what those were.

I walked from the train station to the ancient semi-walled area that's the barrio La Judería.  I wrote in my little book when I got there:

From Spain 2010

I'm in the cathedral-inside-of-a-mosque in Córdoba and it's one of the most amazing things I've seen.  It's very dim and relatively quiet considering the number of people in here.  The red and white archways are everywhere and the cathedral is mixed in, with the main part in the center.  I think I've gone around twice but don't want to leave!

Later:  My feet are f'ing killing me!  I've been wandering around the old section of Córdoba, whic is kind of like a bigger, broken-walled version of Murten.  I had lunch at a nice restaurant with very friendly waiters and had fried calamari (not very good), these meatball and french fries in a thick sauce (very good) and fried eggplant in a sweet almond and cinnamon sauce (the best).

I'm resting on a bench now; there are more things I'd like to see but I don't think I will have any skin on my feet for tomorrow.

Later (5:00):  So I asked a guy about his horse-drawn carriage ride and it was 46 euros for a carriage load but since I was by myself I said no thank-you and moved on.  The dude chased me down for half a block (I thought I heard someone yelling!) and ended up whittling it down to 30 euros so I did it.  I didn't want to walk!  It wasn't worth the money but still a nice ride.  I think I showed up on a lot of people's cameras on that ride and he went down some NARROW streets and almost ran down a couple of people!  They literally had to leap out of the way and press themselves against walls.

I still have three and a half hours and my feet are dead.  I still have to haul my ass back to the train station.

Later later:  Well I hung around in the shade for a little longer and then walked back to the station and changed my ticket to come back earlier.  Glad I did, really.

When I got back to the train station, I think I walked all the way around trying to find my way back home.  It's a big station too, and I had to ask a policeman directions.  I think I'm gonna make a grilled ham and cheese, Spanish style.

My feetos hurto

From Spain 2010

Lots of walking. That's what we did today. We trekked around a good portion of the Centro neighborhood, seeing many of the major points of interest: the Opera house, Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol and a bunch of other stuff between our apartment and the Palacio Real.

We were going to go in the palacio but the line was huge, so we went in the cathedral of Nuestra Senora de la Almudena museum and dome instead. I technically went outside around the dome, just disregard the fact that I was pressed up against the wall with the world tilting swiftly under my feet. There was a big thick glass partition but phobias are by nature illogical.

We got a little something to eat... I had anchovies on toast with mooshed tomato - it was very good. Jose had a potato/egg pancake thingy that is common around these parts.

I was pooped and dehydrated so we came back and I took a nap and Jose went off to the opera. I went to the botanical gardens and was going to look into train tickets but I realized I forgot my Eurail pass at the apartment. I'll just have to go tomorrow morning early.

I picked up some grub from a cute little vegetarian buffet place and had some other odds and ends like these potato chips that are so good - thick and crunchy and greasy.

From Spain 2010

SLEEP finally

Well, I think after two naps I went to bed around 9:00 last night and woke up after 11 this morning! Jose's making a little breakfast and then I am going to figure out what I'm going to do this week.

I'm thinking of a train trip to at least Cordova and maybe Seville tomorrow... not sure how much I can do in a day.

Jose just made breakfast that we shared with the sweet lady that cleans the apartment - toast with ham and cheese and I had a little bit of duck pate on crackers which is so good.

Now we're going to look up some stuff to do in Madrid - I have no desire to see a bull fight although I wouldn't mind seeing the building. We'll see...

Madrid Arrival

I arrived in Madrid in perfect weather.  After walking down an ENDLESS corridor from the jetway to immigration, I went through a pretty quick immigration/customs process and met Jose.

We took the metro to the apartment where I promptly took a nap, since I had only gotten about 2 hours of sleep since I left home Saturday morning and we were meeting friends at a park for a picnic for lunch.

From Spain 2010

Jose got some food while I slept and we met Anna and Frank at Retiro Park for our picnic.  We had all kinds of delicious stuff (WAY too much for four people), including La Duree macarons!!  Anna is a great cook - she made delicious Italian sandwiches (mozz, tomato, lettuce, a little bit of pesto) and I think the other had mortadella.

We hung out there for about 5 hours I think!  It was a very nice, relaxing time.

Jose's off to a coaching and I'm chilling at the apartment because I'm fading fast but trying to stay up longer so I don't wake up at 2 am.

Next Up! Europe 2010

Flights are booked for Europe 2010.

On the itinerary: Madrid, Paris and Rome. Jose's performing in L'incoronazione di Poppea again and that'll take us from Madrid to Paris, and then we're stopping in Rome to visit our friend Patti who's from Brazil.

It'll be my first time in Spain and Italy!